Research Planning

 

As with any research project, Riding the Trod requires a great deal of preparation and planning—in addition to conducting background and archival research on relevant themes, such as the history of the Trod and historical relationships between humans, horses and the local environment, we also need to conduct a lot of practical preparation. The practical elements include mapping the route, visiting potentially problematic areas where access may be difficult (such as bogland and river crossings), obtaining access from landowners, conducting interviews with members of the local community and various stakeholder groups, and last but not least, getting the horses and riders fit enough to complete the 25 mile route safely and comfortably. Some of our preparation is being documented on the Trod Blog while other aspects will be detailed below over the coming weeks and months...

Riding the Trod

experimental archaeology / ethnography / oral history

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Archival Research

The archival research for this project has a rather broad base, incorporating maps, historical documents, travel writing, folk literature, and websites/weblogs as primary sources and a wide range of secondary material.  

The following is taken from Toulson’s book Walking Round Wales. The Giraldus Journey which was kindly lent to me by an informant Sabrina Johnson, who regularly journeyed around Wales on horseback during her ‘student days’ (see Interviews/Oral History page for more info).

“Walk D: Strata Florida to Abbey Cwmhir (OS sheet 147). The track that Gerald followed on his way to Abbey Cwmhir and the English border, eleven years after his visit to Strata Florida with Baldwin, is the eastern part of the ancient track from Mid Wales to the sea. It can still be followed, but this is not a walk to be attempted without a compass, for even in clear weather it is easy to get lost among the confusing waves of these barren hills. It is easy to understand that one of the worst restrictions which Gerald had to endure, after his activities had led him to fall foul of powerful church authorities, was to deprived of a guide in his native Wales. This territory demands the sort of respect from the traveller that a true desert or an ocean calls for. The way is not made any easier by the marshy ground of the valleys and streams feeding the great reservoirs that are the source of Birmingham’s water supply, and which can often force the walker to make wide detours from the planned route.

The way to the east starts along the lane to the north of the abbey, and then winds up to the Teifi lakes, marshy pools in the hills, where the river has its source. Thence it goes due east to cross the Clarwen, from which it rises to a clear ridgeway towards the Elan, which must be crossed by the new road bridge, constructed when the valley was flooded. Here the old way east joins the mountain road linking Rhayader and Aberystwyth, plunging back into the heather, as the road turns south. The ancient track heads from here to the sheer dramatic cliffs of Llofftyddgleision and the drop to the Wye valley. These rocks are so precipitous, that although the ancient way runs along the top of them, in a mist it is wiser to take the lower path.

The way to Rhayader lies south, through wooded lanes to the western bank of the Wye. From there, those who would follow Gerald further on that journey must take the lane going north-east into the hills towards Yr Onnen farm (034685) and so climb round the hill to reach the forest paths which lead to the clearing where a few stones stand to remind the visitor of the great Cistercian Abbey of Cwmhir, where the headless body of Llewellyn, one of the last great princes of independent Wales, killed at Builth in 1282, lies buried before the site of the high altar.” (118 – 119).

 

Toulson, S. 1988. Walking Round Wales. The Giraldus Journey. London: Michael Joseph.

Researching the Route

We have been extremely fortunate in this respect as we were able to meet up with Andrew and talk through the route, while Alex sketched it out on an OS map. Andrew then took us to see some of the more difficult sections of the route. However, there is still much to be done, as many sections of the route cross private land, or require us to negotiate difficult obstacles such as cattle grids, rivers and particularly boggy land. As a result, this part of the preparation is still ongoing, and you can follow our progress on the TrodBlog.

Ford across the Nant Tawelan

Photograph: Samantha Hurn

Andrew and Alex scrutinising the map at the foot of Moelfryn

Photograph: Samantha Hurn

A page of Sam’s fieldwork diary written during conversation with Andrew about the route of the Monks’ Trod

A fallen tree blocking the true route of the Trod leading into the Wye.

Photograph: Samantha Hurn

Above: The route of the Monks’ Trod as sketched by Alex during discussion with Andrew and digitally recreated by Jemma Bezant.